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There are no saints epub12/15/2023 ![]() ![]() Still, the Abbé’s monument was not what revealed the strangeness of the place to me it was only the setting, a baseline to underpin the horn flourish to come. It was the kind of sculpture that will not stay still in your mind’s eye, in your memories, and your dreams, the kind of sculpture that gives the impression it does not stay still when there are no eyes to gaze upon it. Dull grey against a brilliant blue sky, it is a singular focus for the attention and I found it hard to imagine that even the most jaded local would ever quite get used to looking up and seeing it. It was meant to represent the Abbé’s pioneering work in the field of mesmerism, but at first glance, shorn of context, it is a magus casting a spell on a hapless maiden. The transcendent strangeness of the place came home to me on a hot afternoon in Panjim, at the foot of the statue of Abbé Faria-a sinister sculpture of a long-coated man gesturing masterfully over a swooning woman. ![]() What I’d never thought about was its hybrid heritage, the many strands that entwined to make up the fabric of this strange, sunny province. Goa did not, at any point, seem like a place I wanted to visit besides, I preferred the mountains, or even hills, to the seaside. It was just a place I had heard of, a seaside honey pot, a trap snaring tourists and locals alike in a joyless phantasmagoria of picture-postcard tableaux, narcotic stupors, terpsichorean excesses and paper-thin multiculturalism. They’re down / and they’re not easily found / Buried / They’re buried in the ground / Yeah, they’re buried upside down
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